05/02/2026
Vintage watches, before shock settings were commonplace, are a little more involved than you’d think. They require a different skillset and patience far different than modern repairs.
At ONVA, we welcome these kinds of projects.
In modern designs, the balance and hairspring can stay attached to the balance bridge during service. Only if more invasive work like restaffing or advanced hairspring adjustments need to be made, would you remove the balance from the bridge.
In vintage examples like this, where the balance jewel setting is not a shock absorber, we get to remove the balance each time (hooray!).
In this first photo, you can see the pieces we start with during assembly after cleaning.
The second photo, the placement of the regulating pins and fine adjustment arm over the cap jewel.
The third and fourth photos, attaching the cap jewel to the bridge, which secures the regulating pins in place. Lubrication of the cap jewel is done here before the balance is installed.
Fifth photo, opening of the regulating pins to accept the hairspring.
Sixth photo, the oscillator, or balance assembly.
Seventh, fitting the outer coils of the hairspring between the regulator pins.
Once fit up, the balance is installed into the watch, and further adjustments are made to the flatness and centering of the spring.
Finally, the beat error is adjusted by rotating the hairspring collect around the staff— this is not a modern system that allows independent beat adjustment from the bridge. The entire assembly is charming — and entirely manual.
Who are you going to with your next vintage repair?
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vintagewatch