Brett Stettner Color Diamonds

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World’s first public tender for rare Australian Pink DiamondsAn Australian finance corporation, which currently holds a ...
06/14/2021

World’s first public tender for rare Australian Pink Diamonds

An Australian finance corporation, which currently holds a collection of Argyle’s rare pink diamonds as mortgagee in possession, has asked Yourdiamonds.com, an Australian technology startup founded by Tim Goodman, a former Executive Chairman of Sotheby’s Australia, to sell the stones.

The five pink diamonds ranging from 0.40 carat to 1.01 carat, originally sourced from the Argyle Diamond Mine, are expected to fetch over $1mn. The request to sell the gems inspired Tim to expand the sale to include other pink diamonds originally from the Argyle mine.
A fine Argyle Diamond Mine certified pink oval cut diamond of 4PP colour weighing 0.54 carats estimated to fetch $200,000 – 270,000 at the Yourdiamonds.comTM Public Tender from 21 June – 01 July 2021.
The catalogue will be capped at just 30 pink diamonds. The final accumulated collection will be the subject of high security travelling roadshow around the Australian capital cities. The sealed Tender Bids will be opened at 10.00 am in Sydney on Friday 02 July in the presence of a Partner at international accountants, Grant Thornton.
“We are creating a secondary market. The primary market is strong and the timing is perfect for sellers. Subject to the success of this first project we intend to conduct a Public Tender of Australian pink diamonds twice a year. We may extend the scope to include diamonds of other colours originally sourced from the Argyle Mine,” Tim Goodman said.

$15.7M Pinky ring: Heiress diamond auctioned after 7 decades in bankA dazzling pink diamond that had been gathering dust...
06/12/2021

$15.7M Pinky ring: Heiress diamond auctioned after 7 decades in bank

A dazzling pink diamond that had been gathering dust since the 1940s in a bank vault, sold at auction last night for a staggering $15.7 million.

The rare, 9-carat gem, formerly owned by reclusive copper heiress Huguette Clark, was the centerpiece of her personal jewelry collection, which fetched $20.8 million at Christie’s.

The stone, mounted on a ring, was the most valuable pink diamond ever sold in America.

It was part of the second-most valuable private jewelry collection ever auctioned in the United States, just behind the gems that once belonge

STUNNER:This 9-carat pink diamond once belonged to reclusive heiress Huguette Clark.

in the United States, just behind the gems that once belonged to Elizabeth Taylor.

It had been expected to sell for $6 million to $8 million.

“I’m very excited,” said self-proclaimed “diamondier’’ Brett Stettner, 38, the winning bidder, who told The Post he planned to name the diamond after himself.

“I’m going to put my heart and soul into making this stone the best it can possibly be,” he said.

“It’s an honor to have a stone with such a provenance. I’m out for perfection,’’ said Stettner, who he has been working with precious gems since he was 14.

“The diamond will speak to me,” he said. “Right now it says ‘I’m gorgeous, make me better.’ ”

Almost all of Clark’s jewels fetched at least double their estimated value at the auction.

They included:

* A stunning, rectangular-cut, 20-carat Cartier diamond ring that had been expected to sell for about $3 million. It went for $7.5 million.

* A single strand of pearl necklace from Tiffany & Co., estimated to be worth $30,000. It snared $362,500.

* An American-flag brooch, estimated to be worth $40,000, that sold for $80,500.

Clark, who died last May at age 104, hadn’t even looked at any of the jewels since the 1940s, said Rahul Kadakia, head of jewelry, at Christie’s.

After Clark’s death, Kadakia was the first person in more than six decades to enter the Manhattan bank vault where the precious treasures were hidden.

The gem sale is the latest twist in the bizarre life of the heiress, who cut her entire family out of her will, but left $35 million to her nurse. The bulk of her $400 million fortune was left to charity.

Sotheby’s Sets World Record on Two Fancy Colored DiamondsTwo fancy colored diamonds sold for record prices at auction th...
06/12/2021

Sotheby’s Sets World Record on Two Fancy Colored Diamonds

Two fancy colored diamonds sold for record prices at auction this week—and they were both bought by the same man.

At Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on April 18, Brett Stettner of Stettner Investment Diamonds bought a fancy blue diamond ring from Tiffany & Co. for $2.4 million, or $687,712 per carat. The 3.54 ct. VS1 marquise fetched the auction’s top bid and went for several times more than its high estimate of $500,000.

According to Sotheby’s, that is a world record per-carat price for a fancy blue diamond, topping the 20.17 ct. fancy blue diamond ring that sold for $9.9 million ($490,952 per carat) at Sotheby’s New York in October 1994.

The previous day, Stettner set a U.S. record when he paid $15.7 million for the Clark Pink, a ring-set, 9 ct. cushion-cut, fancy vivid purplish pink diamond at a Christie’s New York auction.

Stettner says that he feels “humbled” to have won such rare stones.

“These are unique wonderful colored diamonds,” he says. “I am looking for diamonds that I can create value with and pass that value on to my clientele. There are not many stones like these. They are priceless.”

Overall, the Sotheby’s auction took in $43.1 million, the highest-ever total for a spring sale of jewelry at Sotheby’s New York, topping last April’s then-record tally of $39.4 million.

Kim Kardashian Shares Story Behind Upgraded Engagement RingDiamond expert Brett Stettner, chairman of Stettner Diamond I...
06/12/2021

Kim Kardashian Shares Story Behind Upgraded Engagement Ring

Diamond expert Brett Stettner, chairman of Stettner Diamond Investments, who has worked with Lorraine Schwartz before, told Us that despite Kardashian’s ring being engraved with a tracking number, her chances of getting it back are “slim to none.”

Kim Kardashian-West, wedding ring band detail, attends The Girls' Lounge dinner, giving visibility to women at Advertising Week 2016, at Pier 60 on September 27, 2016 in New York City.

Stettner told Us that the robbers are likely part of a “sophisticated criminal enterprise, like the Pink Panthers, [who] will know how to remove the location numbers [a.k.a. tracking] from the diamond.”

“When a diamond is stolen by sophisticated thieves, they have their own people in the underworld who are cutters. The cutter is not necessarily involved with the crime organization, but they are hired to recut the diamond,” Stettner explained. “The thieves would say their client wants a different shape and to recut the diamond to the client’s specifications,” meaning the ID number “will be removed in the cutting process.”

This Guy Just Bought $18.2 Million Worth Of DiamondsBrett Stettner is having a very expensive week.Stettner, a diamond d...
06/12/2021

This Guy Just Bought $18.2 Million Worth Of Diamonds

Brett Stettner is having a very expensive week.

Stettner, a diamond dealer who runs a diamond investment fund, bought the top lots at both Christie's and Sotheby's jewelry auctions in New York City this week, according to ArtInfo.

At Sotheby's, he paid $2.4 million for a 3.54-carat marquise-shaped fancy blue diamond ring, eight times the low estimate of $800,000.

And at Christie's, he paid a record-breaking $15.8 million for a 9-carat pink diamond ring from the collection of "reclusive" heiress Huguette Clark. It was the most expensive pink diamond ever sold in the U.S.

According to his biography, Stettner has been an appraiser, diamond grader and dealer since the early '90s. He started his diamond investment firm in 1995.

Diamond Necklace Leads $38M Sotheby’s AuctionRAPAPORT... A diamond necklace by designer Andrew Clunn smashed its estimat...
06/11/2021

Diamond Necklace Leads $38M Sotheby’s Auction

RAPAPORT... A diamond necklace by designer Andrew Clunn smashed its estimate at Sotheby’s on Wednesday, selling for $4.1 million at the company’s New York auction.

The piece, set with 28 graduated, oval-shaped diamonds weighing more than 168 carats combined, achieved a price well above its $3 million high valuation at the June 9 Magnificent Jewels sale, Sotheby’s said. This established a new record for the designer at auction.

The necklace was part of a private collection of six jewels from the same anonymous seller. Three other pieces from the group also surpassed their presale valuations, including a Colombian emerald and diamond necklace by Harry Winston, which fetched $2.8 million. A 13.02-carat Burmese ruby ring by designer Carvin French went for $2.5 million against a $2 million upper estimate, while an emerald-cut, 23.59-carat, D-color, internally flawless diamond ring sold for $3 million. All six pieces sold, together garnering $15.4 million of the $37.5 million auction total.

Another highlight was the Sienna Star, a cut-cornered square step-cut, 73.11-carat, fancy-vivid-yellow, VS2-clarity diamond ring by designer Glenn Spiro, which beat its $3 million high estimate. The $3.4 million achieved was a record auction price for jewelry by Spiro, Sotheby’s noted.

Meanwhile, a cushion-cut, 25.29-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring by Bulgari fetched $2.9 million, and a modified square brilliant-cut, 3.75-carat, fancy-intense-pink, VVS1-clarity diamond ring sold for $2 million, both within estimates.

The Magnificent Jewels sale featured advance online bidding and a live auction. Some 74% of bidders participated online, with 84% of the available lots receiving advance bids, Sotheby’s added. In total, the auction house sold 93% of items on offer. Of those, 65% exceeded their high estimates.

54ct. Diamond Crushes Estimate at Christie’sRAPAPORT... The 54.03-carat Chrysler Diamond necklace was among the top sell...
06/10/2021

54ct. Diamond Crushes Estimate at Christie’s

RAPAPORT... The 54.03-carat Chrysler Diamond necklace was among the top sellers at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York, bringing in $5.1 million.

The pear-shaped, D-color, internally flawless stone was originally purchased by Harry Winston in 1958 from the estate of Thelma Chrysler Foy, the daughter of railroad and automotive executive Walter Chrysler. The necklace beat its high estimate of $4.5 million at the June 8 auction, which garnered $26.6 million in total, Christie’s said Tuesday.

Also headlining the sale was the Dancing Sun, a cushion modified brilliant-cut, 204.36-carat, fancy-intense-yellow, VVS2-clarity diamond, the largest originating in North America. The stone sold for $5 million, near the upper end of its valuation.

The Flawless Match, a ring featuring a pear-shaped, 2.52-carat, fancy-vivid-blue diamond and a pear-shaped, 2.43-carat, D-color, internally flawless, type IIa diamond, fetched $2.9 million, within its estimate. Meanwhile, a collection of 19 jewels by JAR, the largest selection of the designer’s pieces offered at auction, went for a total of $5.9 million. That set was led by a diamond bracelet called Branch Under Snow, which achieved $1.9 million, more than three times its high estimate.

The auction house sold 87% of items at the event. Before the live sale, it also held a Jewels Online auction that raked in $3.5 million, with 97% of lots finding buyers.

Israel’s Polished Trading Surges AgainRAPAPORT... Israel’s diamond exports rose sharply in May as the global industry co...
06/09/2021

Israel’s Polished Trading Surges Again

RAPAPORT... Israel’s diamond exports rose sharply in May as the global industry continued to recover and polished prices climbed, according to government data.

Polished shipments after returns more than tripled to $264.2 million from $75 million a year earlier, reflecting a rebound from the 2020 coronavirus crisis, the Ministry of Economy and Industry reported Tuesday.

Israel has almost entirely returned to normal following a successful vaccination drive, enabling the diamond trade to capitalize on buoyant retail demand in the US and China. May “continued the meteoric growth trend that we have witnessed in the Israeli diamond industry in recent months,” said Ophir Gore, the nation’s diamond controller.

“The Israeli diamond industry has many reasons to remain optimistic, among the main ones being the recovery of the global diamond industry, price increases, and the inventory reduction at the major mining companies, especially De Beers and Alrosa,” Gore continued.

Polished-export volume leaped to 110,671 carats from 37,294 carats, while the average price jumped 19% to $2,387 per carat, the figures showed.

Polished imports soared more than sevenfold to $274.7 million from $38.6 million a year before. Rough imports surged 595% to $161.1 million, with rough exports rising to $137.9 million from $12.2 million in May 2020. The United Arab Emirates (UAE), with which Israel reached a peace deal last year, accounted for 6.5% of rough exports and 11.5% of rough imports in May.

For the first five months of the year, polished exports advanced 68% year on year to $1.41 billion, while rough imports more than doubled to $755.5 million from $303.3 million in the same period of 2020.

Banking on DiamondsRAPAPORT... In both financial and diamond industry terms, 2017 seems like an eternity ago. Bankers at...
06/09/2021

Banking on Diamonds

RAPAPORT... In both financial and diamond industry terms, 2017 seems like an eternity ago. Bankers at the Dubai Diamond Conference in October of that year gave a stark warning to the diamond sector: The trade is over-financed, insufficiently transparent, not profitable enough, and altogether too risky. This was their unanimous observation, to the discomfort of the audience.

With bank credit amounting to an estimated $13 billion at the time, lenders claimed the industry could function sufficiently on just $8 billion. Bankers were already reducing their exposure to the trade’s risks, and many had closed their diamond units altogether.

Today, bank credit has reached that $8 billion level, according to estimates from Bain & Company (see graph). Meanwhile, the diamond industry appears to have enhanced its stature among lenders. In an unexpected twist, the midstream radically improved its liquidity position during the challenging pandemic period.

“We’re seeing that our clients had much better profitability in 2020 than 2019,” reports Davy Blommaert, head of diamond lending at the Dubai-based National Bank of Fujairah (NBF). Because supply was limited, he explains, diamond value went up during the pandemic, whereas 2019 was a tough year that saw an excess of polished on the market.

As factories closed and rough buying froze during the lockdowns of 2020’s second quarter, diamond cutters were able to reduce the inventory that had been weighing on their businesses. The lack of new polished meant other suppliers, too, could focus on selling old stock that had been difficult to move.

Unlike in previous years, when the decline in financing was due to banks’ reluctance to take on the risks the industry carried, last year’s dramatic drop resulted from lower demand for funding. When banks finance a diamond company, they look at its assets, which are typically inventory and receivables — the outstanding payments that clients owe the company — explains Blommaert. Less inventory means companies are more liquid, he says, and the more liquid they are, the more they want to buy for cash rather than on credit terms, since they have sufficient funds and can get a discount with cash.

Currently, inventory and receivables are both low, meaning diamantaires are holding fewer assets that need financing, Blommaert observes, adding that he personally has “never known leverage in our industry to be so low.”

Profitable rough

Many credit De Beers and Alrosa with the improvement, as they allowed greater flexibility in their rough sales during the crisis. The two miners — which combined account for about half of global rough production — let clients refuse goods between March and September, thereby reducing supply while keeping prices stable.

As a result, there was less need for financing, since the banks usually fund those rough purchases, explains Olya Linde, a partner with Bain & Company’s energy and natural resources division, as well as coauthor of Bain’s annual diamond report.

Meanwhile, prices at rough auctions and tenders fell 20% to 30% as smaller miners that needed liquidity were forced to sell. Many in the trade took advantage of that, Linde notes — and Blommaert says they are reaping the benefits today, since both rough and polished prices have recovered.

Before Covid-19, rough from a given mine would sell at around $100 per carat, but that dropped to about $73 during the pandemic, Blommaert elaborates. While it has since gone back up to around $110, those who bought at the lower rate are now enjoying increased profitability. Manufacturers usually achieve a margin of some 3%, he says, but if their cost was $73 and they are selling polished at the same price as before, they’ll suddenly see significant gains.

Improving the risk profile

All of the banking and industry professionals Rapaport Magazine interviewed agree that 2020 was healthy for the midstream, which improved its profits despite the challenging conditions.

“[The trade] embraced technology and the changes that were forced upon it,” says Linde. “And it was able to clean up its inventory due to the disruptions in the supply chain.”

Importantly, there were very few reports of bankruptcies in the manufacturing and trading centers. That has raised banks’ tolerance for the industry, according to one India-based banker who has requested anonymity.

“When the pandemic and lockdowns were declared, there was some resistance from banks to extend finance, as they thought the trade would face more risk, challenges and stress,” says Colin Shah, chairman of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). “After one year, the trade has come back strong, standing on its own feet, and operating with near-normal capacity. So the earlier concerns perceived by the banks are no longer relevant.”

Even before Covid-19, the industry was slowly improving its risk profile among lenders. That was largely because banks were steadily leaving the industry or taking steps to protect themselves from its hazards. Antwerp Diamond Bank, Standard Chartered Bank and Israel’s Bank Leumi all stopped funding the sector in the last six years, resulting in more than $2 billion worth of credit leaving the trade.

Just as significantly, ABN Amro — one of the largest lenders to the industry — reduced its credit facility for rough buying, influencing others to do the same. Diamantaires were forced to self-finance a portion of their rough purchases. This served the trade well during the pandemic, says Blommaert, as traders have learned how to work with less reliance on the banks.

Transparency matters

Another thing contributing to the industry’s improved profile in recent years has been the shift to more corporate structures. De Beers’ program to ensure that sightholders comply with International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) has helped the market a lot.

The wider adoption of measures such as IFRS accounting guidelines has facilitated greater financing opportunities, according to Hilmar Hauer, head of debt products at Channel Capital, which provides securitized financing to the diamond trade.

“For the global capital markets, the improved transparency is a really important factor when we analyze companies,” he comments.

The anonymous Indian banker agrees that “the industry is becoming more transparent and bringing in better corporate governance.”

The industry has also made some strides in improving its reputation among consumers, according to Erik Jens, founder of LuxuryFintech and former head of ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry client division.

The trade has become increasingly focused on doing the right thing, with initiatives such as Diamonds Do Good, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) working to raise the industry’s corporate social responsibility (CSR) standards, he notes. Jens foresees this opening up new financing avenues for the sector.

He also points to a trend in which banks are tying their loans to a company’s sustainability platform. In April, jewelry brand Pandora secured a new EUR 950 million ($1.15 billion) credit facility that links the borrowing costs to the progress the company makes toward its environmental goals. These goals include becoming carbon-neutral and using only recycled silver and gold in its products.

A juicy past

Reputational risk factors are important to regulators such as the central banks, which set compliance standards for the banking sector. Guided by the Basel Accords — which require lenders, and consequently their customers, to have a minimum amount of equity and liquidity — those standards continue to tighten. This has implications for the diamond trade, Jens points out.

“When the regulators say an industry is [an] increased risk, it creates a portfolio decision for credit committees, boards and management teams,” he explains. “They have to decide if they want to finance the business or not, [taking into account any stringencies the industry has put in place to mitigate the risks].”

Banks would still rather lose money on a real estate firm or coffee trader than on a diamond company, given that the latter sector garners a lot more press than others, he says. “There was a mystery about the diamond trade, and these [negative stories] have been very juicy in the past.”

That said, diamonds performed better than many other asset classes during the pandemic, Blommaert notes.

Supportive measures

Blommaert, Hauer and the Indian banker all stress that they are comfortable with the industry’s current risk profile. Furthermore, lenders and governments provided significant support for the trade during the pandemic.

As Covid-19 spread, the Reserve Bank of India revised its lending guidelines to let companies realign their working capital and get extensions on their loans, Shah reports. The Indian government also guaranteed loans to micro, small and medium enterprises — which included many diamond companies — amounting to INR 3 trillion (about $41 billion).

In Israel, 300 diamantaires received loans of between NIS 250,000 ($75,000) and NIS 4 million ($1.2 million), reports Yoram Dvash, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), who recently stepped down as president of the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE). The government guaranteed 85% of the loans, and the banks covered the rest, waiving repayment and interest during the first year, he adds.

Meanwhile, Belgium introduced emergency financial concessions to help companies survive the downturn, offering businesses extra time to repay loans and meet tax obligations. The country’s parliament also passed a law entitling diamond companies to open bank accounts — a great relief to diamantaires who have suffered repeated rejections from lenders in recent years, according to Chaim Pluczenik, president of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC).

Finding alternatives

While the Belgian law was supposed to go into effect on May 1, its implementation has been postponed, to the frustration of Antwerp-based dealers. For years, the country’s banks have shunned the industry, and diamantaires have struggled to open even a personal account because they are associated with the trade.

Many turned to fintech for banking solutions, or simply to ensure they could receive and make payments on a deal. While one such platform, Ebury, was discontinued after failing to meet compliance standards — temporarily freezing its clients’ funds in the process — other options are available. More non-bank institutions are becoming interested in the industry, according to an Antwerp-based sightholder who has requested anonymity.

Various initiatives targeting smaller diamond companies have launched in recent years, with peer-to-peer financing gaining traction, notes Bain’s annual report on the diamond industry. However, the majority of non-bank lending goes to larger manufacturers via asset-backed securitization — a financial instrument that uses a company’s assets, such as debt, inventory or equity, as collateral.

In it for the long term

Providers such as Channel Capital Advisors and Guggenheim Securities use asset-backed securitization for a limited number of clients — those that have sufficient scale and can withstand the necessary scrutiny. Manufacturer Rosy Blue, for instance, has a credit facility with Channel, while fellow manufacturers Pluczenik Diamond Company and Diarough have deals with Guggenheim.

While the existence of those arrangements is public knowledge, most deals are private, in keeping with the nature of some parts of the diamond industry, Channel’s Hauer says.

These types of deals are also subject to tremendous scrutiny by the lender. Channel does in-depth due diligence in vetting its clients, working to understand their businesses and ensure they have the requisite corporate governance structures in place, Hauer affirms. To qualify, companies must have the revenue flow to pay back the loan over the agreed term — typically three to five years.

The advantage of this arrangement for diamond companies is that it provides secure long-term funding. Whereas with typical working capital lines, a bank may pull its credit facility on short notice, debt providers such as Channel and Guggenheim are committed for the long haul. As long as the company continues to comply with the loan terms, the financing cannot be withdrawn. As part of those terms, the diamond companies agree to utilize the full sum available to them for the duration of the loan period.

Hauer notes a rise in diamond companies’ interest in non-bank financing, and has found that more securitization management firms, in turn, are willing to work with the diamond sector. Banks’ continued exit from diamond financing has contributed to those trends, as has the trade’s solid performance within the securitization system, he says.

Building goodwill

Still, the bulk of lending is done by the banks, and their response to the pandemic signaled that the working relationship between diamantaires and their lenders was beginning to thaw. “The industry was always complaining about the banks, and the banks were complaining about the industry,” Jens says. “But I think those pain points have been reduced a lot. The relationship has become more normalized.”

That changing dynamic will be important, as the need for financing is likely to rise along with trading activity in 2021. Already, a spike in rough demand since the beginning of the year has caused some concern about overdue payments, says Pluczenik. De Beers’ rough sales for January through April more than doubled year on year to $2.04 billion in total, and rough prices have largely returned to pre-pandemic levels.

However, few expect such high demand to persist for the rest of the year. Furthermore, De Beers and Alrosa are being careful not to oversupply the market — thus keeping demand for financing in check, Blommaert says.

No pressure

Diamantaires should not take the current availability of financing for granted, warn Blommaert and Jens. Because receivables declined and businesses didn’t use their full credit lines in 2020, banks may decide to reduce those facilities.

If a bank provides credit with a limit of $50 million, for example, and the diamantaire only uses $20 million, the bank still has to carry capital reserves for the $50 million, Jens explains. “They’re not making money on it, and they have to pay.”

The banks are waiting to see how the market evolves before making any decisions about raising or lowering their diamond clients’ credit. While there is optimism about consumer demand in the US and China, there are also concerns that the pandemic will linger through 2022, as Bain expects.

The recent spike in infection rates in India has fueled concerns about supply disruptions, as well as fears that the full recovery might take longer than expected. Manufacturing in India declined an estimated 30% to 40% in April and May due to high worker absenteeism and limitations resulting from the pandemic. Meanwhile, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is reporting a backlog of over a month at its Mumbai and Surat labs.

For now, however, the diamond industry is confident that it has sufficient liquidity to see it through any setbacks, and that it has built up enough goodwill to sustain its newfound favor with the banking sector.

“I don’t think there is business that people are not able to do because they don’t have the funding,” says the anonymous Indian banker. Liquidity has remained stable despite the disruptions from the new Covid-19 wave in India, since demand continues, he stresses.

“People have liquidity that is fueling their business at the moment,” agrees Dvash. “Business is moving, and turnover is very quick when you buy. I don’t feel there is pressure from the banks on the trade — neither in Israel, Belgium or India.”

Lucara Turns Up 470ct. Rough at KaroweRAPAPORT... Lucara Diamond Corp. has unearthed six diamonds over 100 carats from i...
06/08/2021

Lucara Turns Up 470ct. Rough at Karowe

RAPAPORT... Lucara Diamond Corp. has unearthed six diamonds over 100 carats from its Karowe mine in Botswana, including a light-brown stone weighing 470 carats.

The miner recovered the clivage diamond — one of lower quality, which needs to be cut before processing — from the site’s south lobe EM/PK(S) area, known for its large, high-quality rough, it said Tuesday. The stone is Lucara’s third over 300 carats this year. In January, it found two high-quality diamonds weighing 341 and 378 carats.

The miner discovered the stone during a recent production run that included five additional 100-carat-plus diamonds of both gem and clivage quality. Along with those stones, weighing 265, 183, 161, 116 and 106 carats, were 13 diamonds between 50 and 100 carats.

Special-sized stones — those over 10.8 carats — accounted for 13% of the total carat weight of May’s output, exceeding Lucara’s resource expectations for Karowe, it explained.

Including the current batch, Karowe has produced 10 diamonds over 100 carats this year.

“The benefits of a south lobe-dominated mine plan continue to be realized in 2021, and [this] underpins our confidence in the ever-improving Karowe resource as we mine deeper in the open pit to 2026 and move into underground mining out to at least 2040,” said Lucara CEO Eira Thomas. “Both main rock types from the south lobe continue to deliver large, high-value diamonds, including six diamonds greater than 200 carats in the first five months of this year alone.”

Diamond Suppliers See ‘Unprecedented’ SalesRAPAPORT... It’s almost as if wholesalers want to say, “Pinch me.” Sales have...
06/08/2021

Diamond Suppliers See ‘Unprecedented’ Sales

RAPAPORT... It’s almost as if wholesalers want to say, “Pinch me.” Sales have been so consistent and strong since January that they’re comparing it to Christmas. Even as inventory prices keep rising, they are savoring this welcome sales streak — for now.

New York: big business

“We’re breaking records every month,” said Yoni Nitzani, owner of wholesaler Polo Gem Co. in New York. “Every month has been like Christmastime.” In fact, there have been “dramatic” monthly sales increases, he reported.

A shift to big sizes has been driving his business. While a 1- to 2-carat diamond used to be the norm, 4, 5, or 6 carats are now “easy to sell,” Nitzani said. Large matched pairs for studs weighing a total of 4 carats and up are “super strong,” he added, and large fancies are also in demand. Observing a trend for elongated stones, he noted that they were selling across the board in all sizes and categories.

However, buying has been “very challenging, with difficult pricing.” Rounds have been “super, super expensive,” said Nitzani, who is still purchasing “aggressively, even though it requires much more work and effort on the ground with our buyers overseas.” It’s not for lack of goods, he explained. “The supply is there; overseas manufacturers are working full force. It’s a price issue.” And even with excellent sales, margins are lean.

While his hopes for 2021 were high, he stressed that this period of accelerated consumer buying was “not the new norm in the fine-jewelry industry.”

“You can’t build a business based on these numbers,” he said. “I hope I’m wrong, but I think we all know this is not going to last forever.”

Rochester: strong across the board

Andrew Rickard succinctly summed up current demand in one word: “unprecedented.” Rickard, vice president of operations at wholesaler RDI Diamonds in Rochester, New York, cited “the best February, the best March and the best April” in the 20-plus years he had been with the company.

The “easing of requirements around wedding ceremonies” has fueled a boom in engagements, according to Rickard. Many people with disposable income are upgrading their jewelry and making larger purchases as well, he added.

He noted strong business across the board, without “any category underperforming too dramatically.” Rounds were selling well, he observed, and fancies were strong: Ovals and elongated radiants were “hot,” emeralds were “bouncing back” and there was even some demand for marquise and pear shapes.

Yet Rickard was a “little skeptical” about the long term. He had already seen significant price increases, and anticipated “inventory challenges for the remainder of 2021.” The crisis in India has exacerbated the situation and will “trickle and translate for our industry.”

Still, he remained cautiously optimistic about the rest of the year and saw opportunities “with not a lot of barriers.” His strategy consists mainly of “staying in front of clients, opening new doors and helping where we can.” Indeed, he said, “our biggest issue today is inventory — fulfilling orders versus finding orders. That’s a good problem to have.”

Los Angeles: Paying a little more

“The greatest surprise over the last several months is that we expected doom and gloom, but our business is stronger and inventory prices have kept their value — the opposite of what we feared,” said Joseph Ladd, owner and president of wholesaler and manufacturer Ladd Diamonds in Los Angeles, California.

“Now the biggest issue is the difficulty in replacing the same item we sold. We have to buy it at close to the price we sold it for or even a little below,” he explained. Rather than “haggling over a couple of percentage points,” he prefers to “pay a little more for the stone just to have it in inventory.”

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