30/09/2026
This watch introduced a complication that had never been on a wristwatch before. The dynamographe you can see near twelve o’clock reads out, in real time, the actual torque coming off the mainspring as it unwinds - not just how much running time is left, but how hard the spring is currently pulling. Nobody had bothered to display that information before 2002, when Audemars Piguet built it into the Royal Oak Concept CW1 for the model’s 30th anniversary.
The case is just as unusual. It’s made from Alacrite 602, a cobalt, chromium and tungsten alloy developed for aerospace and medical use, hard enough to score 430 on the Vickers scale while staying light. No other watch, from AP or anyone else, has used it since. Inside, the caliber 2896 was built by Renaud & Papi with titanium bridges and a tourbillon cage fitted with shock absorbers rated to 50 Gs, while the crown’s three functions - winding, neutral, hand-setting - are spelled out on the dial in French initials, N, R and H, rather than hidden away. Only 150 were made, across three years of production