Rui Galopim de Carvalho FGA DGA

Rui Galopim de Carvalho FGA DGA Sharing the passion for education in gems & gemmology. No buying nor selling gems, only education and research.
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Ruby or Pink Sapphire?Terminology for gem corundum coloured by chromium has always puzzled me for historical, technical ...
22/06/2026

Ruby or Pink Sapphire?
Terminology for gem corundum coloured by chromium has always puzzled me for historical, technical and practical reasons. Up until the 20th century, pink to red corundum was classified as ruby, or oriental ruby, sometimes romantically referred to as female ruby (pink) and male ruby (red). Today, the term “pink sapphire” is well established in modern gemstone terminology and the stakeholders of the trade use it with its meaning as established by current trade standards: pink gem variety of corundum.
Curiously though, technically, pink can be understood as the same hue, red, but with a different tone (value) and saturation (chroma), meaning, in simpler words, that pink and red are basically the same colour (like blue and light blue: both blue). This means that the historical understanding of the term was not incorrect at all. To complicate things a bit, perception of colour within pink to red corundum is dependent upon many factors: the type of illuminant and light environment used for the observation; the cutting style and proportions; the orientation of the optic axis with the table facet and the angle of observation; and with orientation/position of the stone; and the viewer's visual acumen. To add complexity, to clearly separate between pink sapphire and ruby in a laboratory there are a combination of factors involved with established controlled observation conditions and a comparison test with a master set following certain protocols.
The interesting fact is that there is no international standard for this separation, but historically there never was one anyway because these gem corundums were just called "rubies".
In the photo, a c. 4.4 ct pink sapphire from Sri Lanka (?) set on a 19th century gold and diamond insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece at the Museu do Tesouro Real - Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, in Lisboa, Portugal © Rui Galopim de Carvalho.

It is said that moonstone is one of the birthstones of June and although I am not personally a big fan of the concept of...
15/06/2026

It is said that moonstone is one of the birthstones of June and although I am not personally a big fan of the concept of birthstones, I do find it, however, useful as an excuse to talk about less usual gemstones, like this one. Moonstone is the collective trade name for the iridescent varieties of a selected group of feldspars, namely adularia (orthoclase) and iridescent peristerite (albite-oligoclase) and, also, anorthoclase and antiperthite that may also show similar optical effects and may also be classified as moonstone in the trade. The term has also been used to describe colourless iridescent (labradorescent) andesine-labradorite feldspar known in the trade as "rainbow moonstone".
The most common variety as a gemstone is adularia moonstone, typically colourless to white coloured, sometimes yellow or grey, that is most prized when exhibiting adularescence, the so-called schiller effect. This optical phenomenon is caused by a combination of light scattering from very tiny particles (the so-called Tyndall effect) and iridescence caused by thin film interference in crystallographically-related twinning planes. Historically known in Austria, moonstone occurs in Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Tanzania, India, Madagascar and USA (New Mexico).
In the photo, the 'Thistle' pendant by René Lalique, ca. 1898-1900 © Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation ; a pair of earclips by JAR, set with diamonds, sapphires and fine-quality moonstone © FD Gallery; a 5.7 ct faceted labradorite, var. rainbow moonstone from Malawi © Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History

Gemmologists in keeping up with biological namesProgress and continuous updates based in new data and understanding is v...
13/06/2026

Gemmologists in keeping up with biological names
Progress and continuous updates based in new data and understanding is very familiar in science, like in mineralogy (quite close to gemmology), where new mineral species and terminology are constantly being proposed by the research community (e.g. johnkoivulite, named in honour of gemmologist John I. Koivula, approved as a new mineral species of the beryl group in 2019).
The same happens within biogenic gem materials where the biological species names may also accommodate updates and keeping up with terminology is, therefore, important for unequivocal communication. The univalve mollusc that produces a characteristic pink shell and the rare non-nacreous pearls, known in the trade as conch pearls, is a good example. Due to the wide variety of vernacular designations for this marine gastropod, such as, in English, “Queen conch”, and in other languages as “lambi”, “caracol rosado”, “carrucho”, “concha rainha”, it is common to refer to the animal by its scientific name to achieve clear communication. And it is here that the confusion sets if we don’t keep up with the most recent research. This species was formerly known as Strombus gigas and, more recently, also as Lobatus gigas, but its current scientific name is Aliger gigas. There are many other cases of such updates in other shell and pearl producing molluscs as well as in corals.
By the way, conch pearls have porcellanous lustre and white to salmon to brown colour, but preferably pink, with a peculiar cross lamellar microstructure that causes a characteristic “flame structure” that adds to its desirability.
Photos: conch pearl and diamond necklace © David Morris | The London Jeweller ; Fine 4.80 ct conch pearl displaying excellent flame structure © Bonhams ; Conch shell in the Caribbean © H. Forrest Thomas / Florida Atlantic University ; detail of the flame structure © GGTL Laboratories Switzerland

Football and gemmologySince 1974 that the winning team of the FIFA World Cup lifts up a 18K gold heavy 6.175 kg trophy m...
12/06/2026

Football and gemmology
Since 1974 that the winning team of the FIFA World Cup lifts up a 18K gold heavy 6.175 kg trophy made by GDE Bertoni from Milano, and then takes home a golden-plated exact replica (since 2006 that the original gold trophy is only used during the tournament). The gemmological interest of this is is that both the original and the official replica are set with two bands of malachite, a green hydrated copper carbonate with botryoidal or stalactitic habit that occurs as in copper-bearing geological formations, sometimes associated with azurite (a blue carbonate), having its name from the Greek alluding to the colour of mallows or malve leaves. World sources include Katanga in DR Congo (a very important occurrence), Ural mountains, USA, Zambia, Chile and Namibia. Cutting and polishing this gemstone is considered hazardous and special self protection gear must be used.
As a carbonate with low hardness (bellow 4 in the Mohs scale) and high chemical susceptibility, namely to acids, special care is required in handling and maintaining malachite. In fact, the malachite bands of the original trophy have been repeatedly restored over the years, maybe due to the reaction of the material with the sweaty hands of the victorious players!
I myself, as a gemologist, am looking forward to inspecting the malachite layers of the official replica of the trophy when it arrives for permanent exhibition at the museum of the FPF - Federação Portuguesa de Futebol in Portugal in a few weeks after our national team wins the tournament, so I wish!!! Siiuuuuuu!!!
Trophy photo © FIFA; a malachite specimen from Katanga, DR Congo, 7.3 x 5.6 x 0.8 cm © Mineral Auctions.

Understanding the The Star EffectAsterism, also known in the trade as the star effect, is an optical sheen effect that o...
11/06/2026

Understanding the The Star Effect
Asterism, also known in the trade as the star effect, is an optical sheen effect that occurs when two or more bright bands cross each other to produce a star impression on domed polished surfaces, like in a cabochon for example. The phenomenon is caused by more than two crystallographically orientated sets of minute parallel features (e.g. needle-like inclusions, growth tubes) generating intersecting chatoyant effects, hence a star effect that, in most cases, may have 4 rays (e.g. diopside, garnet), 6 rays (e.g. ruby, sapphire, garnet, quartz) or 12 rays (e.g. quartz, garnet). The effect can be observed in both transmitted light (diasterism), but more frequently in reflected light (epiasterism) under a strong light bulb or in direct sunlight. As a light reflection related effect, it is hardly seen in diffused light, suggesting a wise choice of illuminant options in both testing and display. The orientation of the base of the cabochon must be parallel to the direction of the effect-causing structures to obtain a centred star that is critical to its desirability in gemstones.
Asterism may also be artificially induced, namely in natural or synthetic corundum by diffusion treatment or heat treatment at high-temperature (typically between 1100-1600ºC to as high as 1950ºC) by causing the exsolution of titanium oxide into a needle-like crystallographically orientated solid titanium-bearing phase, usually at surface level.
Star stones are interesting examples where understanding crystallography, physics and optics is part of the savoir-faire in the manufacturing and product display process.
In the images, the famous Rosser Reeves ruby, a large 138.7 ct cabochon from Sri Lanka with a very well defined star donated my Mr and Mrs Rosser Reeves to the Smithsonian in 1965, and the Star of India, a 329.7 ct star sapphire from Myanmar, photos by Chip Clark © Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History

Pink to red is one of the colour ranges we commonly associate with tourmaline, often under the trade name rubellite, a t...
05/06/2026

Pink to red is one of the colour ranges we commonly associate with tourmaline, often under the trade name rubellite, a term that, according to many stakeholders, can only refer to tourmalines that are pink to red in both daylight and incandescent light. Technically, tourmaline is not strictly a mineral but rather a complex supergroup that includes a few mineral species with gemmological interest and in the case of pink, three have been reported: elbaite (the most common), fluor-liddicoatite and rossmanite. The longtime colour-based verbal tradition have kept mineralogical terms away from the trade lexicon where a simple “pink tourmaline” or “rubellite” will do the job.
The significant use of pink to red tourmalines in the decorative arts started in only the 20th century, with remarkable exceptions on Medieval jewellery, and the late Qing dynasty period, notably under empress Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908) produced interesting objets d'art made of material from the United States, notably from California from where there are records of significant production, with a reported volume of 120 tons being mined between 1902 and 1910 alone in then new Mesa Grande mining area, in San Diego County.
In the images, pink tourmaline, jadeite jade and natural pearl "Peach and Bats" pendant, late Qing dynasty © Christie's’s; Pink tourmaline "Mythical Beast" seal, late Qing dynasty © Christie's; Faceted 54.14-carat pink tourmaline from the Tourmaline Queen Mine, San Diego, California. © Pala International

Devonshire or D. Pedro Emerald?The very large emerald crystal weighing 1383.93 carats (c. 5 x 5 cm), reportedly from the...
02/06/2026

Devonshire or D. Pedro Emerald?
The very large emerald crystal weighing 1383.93 carats (c. 5 x 5 cm), reportedly from the Muzo area in Colombia, is part of the vast Devonshire Collection at Chatsworth and according to tradition it was given or sold by D. Pedro of Bragança, that was Emperor D. Pedro I of Brazil and king Pedro IV of Portugal, to William Cavendish, 6th duke of Devonshire, probably in 1831, hence the given name of this hexagonal crystal. D. Pedro was the protagonist of one of the most intricate periods of the history of Portugal, stuck between being emperor of Brazil (r. 1822-1831), momentarily king of United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves (r. 1826) and at war with his brother D. Miguel of Portugal (r. 1828-1834) to defend his daughter’s rights to the throne, to become D. Maria II of Portugal (r. 1834-1853). He was constantly in need for funds to finance the war efforts and it is most probable that the emerald was not a present but an asset in exchange for some kind of favour. Although the original ownership of this amazing emerald still needs validation on published documental evidence, its provenance has been repeatedly mentioned in the literature and has become a tradition already. The mineral specimen has been since 2007 on display in the Natural History Museum of London, specifically in The Vault at the end of the Mineral Gallery.
Photo © Natural History Museum, London / The Devonshire Collection, Chatsworth House. Portrait of D. Pedro IV by John Simpson (c. 1834) © Museu Nacional de Soares dos Reis

The 2nd edition of TREASURES, Crowns & Tiaras International Colloquium has received from the Presidência da República Po...
01/06/2026

The 2nd edition of TREASURES, Crowns & Tiaras International Colloquium has received from the Presidência da República Portuguesa (Presidency of the Portuguese Republic) the official confirmation of the High Patronage of His Excellency the President of the Portuguese Republic.
All the team at the Museu do Tesouro Real and Palácio Nacional da Ajuda is very honoured with the distinction that recognises the scientific and cultural merit of this gemmological, jewellery and artistic event in Lisboa, Portugal, that has a uniquely rich program and a singular line up of speakers from all over the world.

We associate high appreciation for the jades and jade-like gem materials with China, where they are collectively known a...
28/05/2026

We associate high appreciation for the jades and jade-like gem materials with China, where they are collectively known as "yù" (玉). Within these gem materials, those known in the western world as jadeite jade, or hard yù (硬玉) or fei cui (翡翠) as known in China, tend to fetch the highest market values when of superior quality. That was the case of a necklace composed of 61 drilled beads measuring approximately 8.8 to 13.7 mm, with a gold clasp featuring a large oval cabochon (11.7 x 15.0 x 7.1 mm) accented with yellow diamonds, dubbed "The Ethereal Jadeite Necklace" that sold for US $25.6 million at Christie's Hong Kong a few days ago, a value just a few notches under the hammer price of the 27-bead (15.4 mm to 19.2 mm) Hutton-Mdivani necklace bought by Cartier in 2014 for US$27.4 million at Sotheby's. Jadeite jade, or fei cui (翡翠), necklaces of this size, quality and impeccable matching are exceptionally rare and have been prized in China since the second half of the 18th century during the Qianlong period of the Qing dynasty, but specially under Empress Dowager Cixi (1835–1908) that was a known fan of this gemstone then mine primarily in Burma (Myanmar).
Photos © Christie's

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Largo Da Ajuda
Lisbon
1349-021

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