Chicago Gem and Jewelry Evaluation Services

Chicago Gem and Jewelry Evaluation Services Appraisal of gemstones, jewelry, and.watches for all purposes and functions. Expert witness and litigation services also available.

10/28/2024
On May 11, Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale will auction a 228.31 pear-shape diamond, considered the largest wh...
03/25/2022

On May 11, Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale will auction a 228.31 pear-shape diamond, considered the largest white diamond ever auctioned.

The gem, dubbed The Rock, is expected to fetch between $20 million and $30 million.

The diamond was mined and polished in South Africa more than two decades ago, Christie’s said. It’s been graded by the Gemological Institute of America as G color, VS1 clarity, and it’s accompanied by a letter from the GIA stating it’s the largest existing D–Z color pear-shape diamond the lab has ever graded.

The previous largest white diamond sold at auction was a 163.41 carat gem, which sold at Christie’s Geneva in November 2017 for $33.7 million.

“The market for diamonds is particularly vibrant, and we are confident that this sensational gemstone will capture the attention of collectors across the globe this spring season,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s international head of jewelry, in a statement.

Lucara Recovers one of World's Biggest Pink DiamondsJuly 14, 21 by John Jeffay(IDEX Online) - Lucara has recovered a hug...
07/16/2021

Lucara Recovers one of World's Biggest Pink Diamonds
July 14, 21 by John Jeffay

(IDEX Online) - Lucara has recovered a huge fancy pink Type IIa diamond - weighing 62.7 carats - from its Karaowe mine, in Botswana.

The Canadian miner said it was one of the world's largest rough pink diamonds on record.

It was recovered from direct milling of ore sourced from the EM/PK(S) unit of the mine's South Lobe, along with three other large fancy pinks of similar quality - weighing 22.1 carats, 11.17 carats and 5.05 carats.

The largest of the four stones, measuring 26x17x16mm, (pictured) has been named Boitumelo, which means "Joy" in Setswana, the native language of Botswana.

In October 2020 a 14.83-carat vivid-purple-pink diamond - cut from a 27.85-carat rough - fetched $26.6m. It was recovered by Alrosa and sold by Sotheby's.

The Karowe mine hit the headlines just three weeks ago, with the announcement of an enormous 1,174-carat clivage diamond measuring 77x55x33mm and described as being "of variable quality with significant domains of high-quality white gem material."

Eira Thomas, Lucara CEO, commenting on the new recovery of four pink gems, said: "These remarkable pink diamonds join a collection of significant diamond recoveries in 2021 produced from the EM/PK(S) which forms a key economic driver for the proposed underground mine at Karowe."

London—Petra Diamonds Ltd. has released details on the sale process for the nearly-40-carat blue diamond it recovered fr...
06/23/2021

London—Petra Diamonds Ltd. has released details on the sale process for the nearly-40-carat blue diamond it recovered from the Cullinan mine in April, a remarkable stone expected to sell for upward of $50 million.

Viewings of the 39.34-carat, Type IIb stone will take place throughout June and into early July, including a stop in New York from July 7-9.

Tender bids are scheduled to close on or around Monday, July 12 at 10 a.m. EDT.

In an interview with National Jeweler last week, George Togholian, a gemologist at L.J. West Diamonds, compared the 39.34-carat diamond to another big chunk of blue rough mined at Cullinan in January 2014—the 29-carat stone that became the $48.5 million “Blue Moon of Josephine.”

New York-based Cora International cut that stone, and Togholian, who worked as a gemologist and consultant for the company then, helped with the planning process.

Though he has not seen the 39.34-carat rough diamond in person yet, he said in pictures it looks “very similar” to the rough that produced the Blue Moon, possessing the color and texture specific to blues from Cullinan.

“This is a special tone of blue. It’s not comparable to any other diamond that comes to auction,” Togholian said.

“In my opinion, these are the best of the blues. This is on another level.”

While he declined to share his guess as to the diamond’s sale price, Togholian did note the 39-carat rough probably will deliver about a 40 percent yield—the yield for blues and pinks is generally less than yellow or white diamonds because the material is not as smooth, he noted—which means a polished diamond of about 15 to 16 carats.

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That’s 3 to 4 carats larger than the 12.03-carat Blue Moon of Josephine, which still holds the world auction record for highest-grossing gemstone per carat at $4 million.

Joseph Namdar, of Namdar Inc., described the 39.34-carat blue rough as a “very special diamond” that is “thought to be one of the purest blues to ever be mined.”

While noting bidding is unpredictable, he put the rough diamond’s sale price at $55 million to $65 million.

Petra Diamonds operates three underground diamond mines in South Africa—the Cullinan, Finsch, and Koffiefontein—as well the open-pit Williamson mine in Tanzania. Williamson has been on care and maintenance since April 2020.

The Cullinan mine has produced a number of famous diamonds, including, of course, the 3,106-carat Cullinan, the rough that produced the 69-carat Taylor-Burton Diamond, and the aforementioned 29-carat blue rough that became the Blue Moon of Josephine.

Anyone interested in scheduling a viewing of the 39.34-carat blue diamond should contact Petra’s Group Head of Sales and Marketing Greg Stephenson at [email protected] or +27 836 379 849.

Debswana Recovers 1,098-carat Diamond, Third Biggest in the WorldJune 17, 21 by John Jeffay(IDEX Online) - A huge rough ...
06/18/2021

Debswana Recovers 1,098-carat Diamond, Third Biggest in the World
June 17, 21 by John Jeffay

(IDEX Online) - A huge rough diamond, described as the third largest in the world at 1,098 carats, has been recovered by Debswana at its Jwaneng mine, in Botswana.

The biggest diamond ever is the 3,106-carat Cullinan found in South Africa in 1905 - used in the British Crown Jewels - followed by the 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona discovered in Botswana in 2015.

The newly-recovered stone (pictured) measures 73 by 52 by 27mm and was presented to the country's president, Mokgweetsi Masisi, on Wednesday.

"This is the largest diamond to be recovered by Debswana in its history of over 50 years in operation," said Lynette Armstrong, acting managing director of Debswana, a 50/50 partnership between the Botswana government and De Beers.

Valuation by the Diamond Trading Co. Botswana is expected in a few weeks.
"From our preliminary analysis it could be the world's third largest gem-quality stone. We are yet to make a decision on whether to sell it through the De Beers channel or through the state owned Okavango Diamond Company."

The company said it used cutting edge technology to uncover and process the stone.

Red End: Argyle Unveils Its Final Pink TenderShareBy Rob Bates | May 19, 2021Rio Tinto has lifted the curtains on its fi...
05/19/2021

Red End: Argyle Unveils Its Final Pink Tender
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By Rob Bates | May 19, 2021

Rio Tinto has lifted the curtains on its final Argyle Pink Diamond Tender, which features a characteristically showstopping collection of pink, red, and blue diamonds from the now-shuttered Australian mine.

This 38th, and last, tender will comprise 70 diamonds weighing 81.63 cts. The year’s biggest “hero” stone is the 3.47 ct. Argyle Eclipse, which is the largest fancy intense pink diamond ever offered at an Argyle Tender.

Other hero gems include the Argyle Stella, a 1.79 ct. square radiant-shaped fancy vivid purplish pink diamond; the Argyle Lumiere, a 2.03 ct. square radiant-shaped fancy deep pink diamond; the Argyle Solaris, a 2.05 ct. radiant-shaped fancy intense pink diamond; and the Argyle Bohème, a 1.01 ct. radiant-shaped fancy red diamond.

Hero diamonds
The full lineup of hero diamonds from this year’s Argyle Pink Diamond Tender, with the Eclipse in the center, flanked by the rest of its super-friends
The tender will also offer 41 lots of Argyle blue diamonds, weighing 24.88 cts. in total. Titled Once in a Blue Moon, these lots feature the last blue and violet diamonds to emerge from the Argyle mine.

RT-apd-2021-blue-moon
The Argyle’s Once in a Blue Moon, showcasing the final blue, violet, and purple diamonds to come from the mine
According to a history in GIA’s Gems and Gemology, the first Argyle Tender was a relatively modest affair, at least compared to what came later. Held in Antwerp, Belgium, in 1985, shortly after the mine began full production, it showcased just 33 diamonds with a total weight of 18.03 cts.—a fraction of what it offered this year. Yet, even this relatively slow start caused a stir: “Never had such a large group of pink diamonds been assembled for sale,” the GIA authors wrote.

Over the years, the event grew, and it held previews around the world, garnering both trade and consumer attention, and turning Argyle pinks into their own sub-brand. (Author Nicholas Sparks was reportedly a collector.)

The Argyle Tender’s mystique has partly stemmed from its air of exclusivity; the event has always been invitation-only. Yet, its biggest draw has always been what’s offered for sale. Outside of auction houses, there are not many places where dealers can get their hands on so many ultrarare (and ultracostly) gems, and many think the desirability of Argyle pinks will only rise now that the mine has shut. (It stopped mining operations in November 2020.)

The tenders were typically built around so-called hero stones—the pinks of the litter—which were given names like the Eclipse. In 2014, Josephine Johnson, Argyle’s manager for pink diamonds, told JCK that the mine took the names very seriously, and a whole team worked to come up with them.

“Usually there is something about the diamond that evokes the name,” Johnson said. “It sounds really trite, but they do all have different personalities and they do really speak to you.”

Dealer Alan Bronstein said in the same JCK piece that he’d “never been disappointed” with an Argyle sale, even during the years that he went home empty-handed.

“Being in the presence of so many beautiful stones…is just one of the honors of being in the diamond business,” he said.

The 2021 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender will hold previews in Perth, Australia; Antwerp; Singapore; and Sydney—subject to COVID-19 protocols. Bids close on September 1.

Top: The 3.47 ct. Argyle Eclipse, the biggest hero stone of the last-ever Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender (all photos courtesy of Rio Tinto Diamonds)



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By: Rob Bates

What A Spectacle! Christie’s Selling 100 Carat D FlawlessShareBy Rob Bates | April 19, 2021The next Christie’s auction p...
05/12/2021

What A Spectacle! Christie’s Selling 100 Carat D Flawless
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By Rob Bates | April 19, 2021

The next Christie’s auction promises a spectacle.

On May 12, Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction will offer for sale the Spectacle (pictured), a 100.94 ct. D color, internally flawless diamond. It’s also a rare Type IIA diamond, the auction house said on Instagram.

The diamond is expected to fetch between $13 million and $19 million, Christie’s said.

The mega-gem is the largest stone ever to have been cut in Russia. It was derived from a 207.29 ct. rough unearthed by miner Alrosa in 2016, at the Zarnitsa kimberlite pipe in the Sakha Republic in the northeast of Russia. Sakha is the home of the first diamond deposit discovered in Russia.

The diamond was cut by the Diamonds of Alrosa cutting factory in Moscow. Between the preparation and actual cutting, the entire process took 20 months.

Alrosa settled on an emerald shape because it allowed the company to present what it calls “the perfect geometry of the diamond.”

“Emerald cut is incompatible with any imperfections, as it allows the observer to gaze endlessly into the clear, unobstructed depths of the gem,” said a statement from Christie’s. “It requires the initial diamond to be perfect.”

In the last decade, Christie’s has offered two comparable stones. A 101.73 ct. D Flawless was purchased for $26.7 million in 2013 by Harry Winston, which promptly renamed it the Winston Legacy. And the 163.41 D Flawless Creation 1 scored $33.7 million in 2017.

This “exceptional 100.94 carat, colorless, emerald-cut diamond displays a breathtaking performance, which is a natural wonder revealed by human hand,” said Sergey Ivanov, CEO of Alrosa, in the same statement. “[It has] astonishing size, combined with impeccable color and quality, characteristics, and flawless provenance guarantee.”

The stone will be on public display on May 1 and 2 in Taipei, Taiwan, and from May 8 to 12 in Geneva.

New York—Game of Thrones’ first episode debuted 10 years ago this month and Fabergé is celebrating “The Iron Anniversary...
04/06/2021

New York—Game of Thrones’ first episode debuted 10 years ago this month and Fabergé is celebrating “The Iron Anniversary” in a major way.

The iconic jeweler is teaming up with Warner Bros. Consumer Products to produce the Imperial Class Fabergé Game of Thrones Egg.

Fabergé’s Head Designer, Liisa Tallgren, collaborated with Game of Thrones’ costume designer Michele Clapton to create the design.

The egg’s design is inspired by the character Daenerys Targaryen, played by actress Emilia Clarke, and tells the story of her quest to sit on the Iron Throne.

“From the very beginning, the evolution of this egg object has been truly poetic,” said Clapton.

“The design references Daenerys Targaryen’s incredible journey and the importance of color within her costumes, her passion for her dragons, and the way she portrayed messages via her jewelry throughout her journey on the show.”

The character raises three dragons in the show, named Drogon, Rhaegal, and Viserion, earning her the title “Mother of Dragons.”

The textures of her dragons and the eggs from which they hatched are referenced with a scale-like design swirling around the one-of-a-kind egg.

The scales are hand-painted in violet, red, blue, and gray enamel, the color scheme of the character’s costumes, and accented with diamonds and moonstones.

The bespoke egg includes references to her costumes, which change along the character’s story arc as she moves from an “orphaned exile to conquering monarch,” said the jeweler.

Handcrafted in 18-karat white gold, a cut-out dragon wraps around the base of the egg, dotted with white diamonds, a nod to the jewelry Daenerys wears throughout the show.

Please join us and share with your gemmy friends.Register Now!So you've chosen to study gemology, that's terrific... but...
04/02/2021

Please join us and share with your gemmy friends.

Register Now!

So you've chosen to study gemology, that's terrific... but what can you do with your gemology? The options are limited only by your imagination. In this series of interactive forums, AGA will provide insight and access into a wide variety of professions centered on gemology. The panelists are all gemologists, performing very different and essential jobs. We invite you to join in, ask questions and discover where you and your gemology might go.

Adrian Smith, FGA is an independent jewellery valuer in Scotland. He is the Founder and Co-ordinator of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (AIJV) and the Developer and Administrator of Jewellery Appraisers of the World (JAW).

2011 AGA Bonanno Award Recipient, Stuart Robertson, GG is Vice President and Research Director of Gemworld International where he observes documents and analyzes worldwide market trends for diamonds and gemstones.

Jill Burgum, GG is Fine Jewelry Director for Heritage Auctions. Jill's responsibilities include acquisitions and sales, identifying current and future jewelry trends, and outreach for Heritage Auctions.

Art Samuels, GG started his gemology career after retiring from the U.S. Navy. He buys and sells high-end estate jewels through estatebuyers.com and his four Florida estate jewelry stores.

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the webinar.

The webinar is Tuesday, April 13, 2021, at 10 a.m. PDT

Register Now!
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Aristocrat's Pig-Shaped Bag Fetches $150,000March 25, 21 by John Jeffay(IDEX Online) - An aristocrat's novelty pig-shape...
03/31/2021

Aristocrat's Pig-Shaped Bag Fetches $150,000
March 25, 21 by John Jeffay

(IDEX Online) - An aristocrat's novelty pig-shaped ruby and diamond evening bag fetched $150,000 at auction - way above its high estimate of just $4,000.

The 1905 piece, made by the Paris-based Lacloche Frères, has eyes set with cabochon rubies, the tail and trotters set with rose-cut diamonds and a line of cushion-shaped diamonds along the spine.

Sotheby's London offered the bag in a sale of jewelry and heirlooms owned by the late Countess Mountbatten of Burma, a first cousin of the Duke of Edinburgh, and a great-great-granddaughter of Queen Victoria. She died in 2017.

Other items in the auction included Queen Victoria's mourning jewels, which sold for $138,000 and her late husband's customized 1967 Jaguar 420, which fetched $172,000. The sale yesterday netted a total of $7.7m.

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