04/29/2026
An Important “Moghul Inspired” Art Deco Carved Emerald Necklace, circa 1920, signed Cartier, London, now in the Stephen Russell Collection. This magnificent three-row design captures the early 20th‑century fascination with Indian royal jewels reimagined through the crisp geometry of the Art Deco era. Composed of 79 richly carved Colombian emerald beads weighing approximately 185 carats, accented by pavé‑set diamond rondelles and black enamel spacers, the necklace evokes the opulence of Mughal court necklaces while transforming their layered strands and carved gemstones into a modern, wearable collar. At once historicist and avant‑garde, it reflects Cartier’s pioneering role in introducing “Indian” carved emeralds and onyx‑and‑diamond contrasts to Western high fashion, a language that would define the maison’s most celebrated Deco creations and influence jewelry style for generations.