J.L. Brandt Co.

J.L. Brandt Co. Fine jewelry advisory services to the public (including appraisals & security issues), consulting services the trade. Professional speaking engagements.

02/07/2026

In the space of one year, the price of gold has effectively doubled (as of this writing, gold is almost $5,000 an ounce), and there are several ramifications. For the vast majority of people who own fine jewelry, this means that your insurance values (especially for jewelry that is primarily gold) is now woefully inadequate. (No, the insured value of your jewelry does not automatically rise with the gold market.) Not sure? Ask your jeweler.

Another issue is security. Jewelry was a major target for burglary when the gold market was $300 to $400 an ounce for a 20-year period through much of the 1980s and 1990s. (In truth, jewelry has always been a major target for burglars.) However, this had become even more of an issue when gold surpassed $1,000, then climbed past $2,000, but now at nearly $5,000 an ounce, extra precaution must be taken to assure that you and some of your most prized possessions won't be parting company unexpectedly.

As I have previously indicated, fine jewelry must be carefully stored somewhere that is not obvious whenever it is not being worn, and I'm not talking about only the pieces that you wear irregularly. I will go so far as advising that a fresh perspective should be taken in regard to security entirely, not only for the home or when traveling, but when wearing gold jewelry in public as well. The gold bracelet you may have received as a birthday present 20(+) years ago (currently insured for $500) may now be worth ten times that amount, so it is time to think about taking extra precautions, not just bringing your insurance up to date.

01/08/2025

As of this writing, the price of gold is more than $2500 per ounce. How does this affect you? It depends on whether you would like to sell any of your jewelry, buy some new jewelry, calculate the value of your jewelry for estate purposes, or simply make sure your current insurance is adequate, but unless you've really kept up, my guess is that you'll be in for a surprise. Only a few years ago, gold was $1,000 an ounce, and there was a 20-year period from the 1980s through the 1990s when gold was about $400 an ounce. What does this mean to you today? It means that you probably have some homework to do. Gold items were never cheap, but at $2500(+) an ounce, even something simple (like a pair of hoop earrings in 14kt gold) are going to be pricey. My recommendation for either buying or selling gold items is the same: SHOP AROUND. This always made sense whether buying or selling, but now it's even more important, because savings could easily amount to hundreds of dollars. Calculating value for your estate, or updating insurance? What you most likely need is a current appraisal, because the price that was paid for something in the past (or an appraisal from years ago), probably has no basis in reality, and I can guarantee that your insurance company has not automatically kept up with the gold market.

10/29/2023

FALL COLOR FASHIONS (Reprinted from a previously published column.)

Actually, I'm not really big on fashions du jour when it comes to fine jewelry; the stuff is far too expensive to allow yourself to be dictated to by transient whims of elite fashion designers, which are in and out of style in the blink of an eye. "Trends" in jewelry are different, and generally stay for many years— such as a preference for white gold over yellow gold, or the demand for diamond tennis bracelets a few years back— but certain fashions cycle endlessly from one year to the next, and these often have to do with color, synchronized to the change of seasons that we enjoy here in the Northeast.

Think of high Fall colors, and what comes to mind? Warm reds and rusts, yellow and gold, moss greens— you get the picture. These may all be echoed by colors in the jewelry you choose to wear. Faceted (or cabochon) colored stones in rings, earrings, pendants, necklaces or pins do not have to cost a "King's ransom", and colored stone beads worn as a single (or multiple) strand necklace of any length you desire can make a spectacular statement. Today, inexpensive freshwater pearls are available in almost any color you can think of, and can easily be matched to outfits or other jewelry.

Some of the transparent fine colored stones that can reflect fall colors without breaking your bank account are citrine (best known in a color range from pale yellow to deep madeira), garnet (generally found from medium to deep red/brown), "smoky" quartz (pale to deep brown), pastel shades of tourmaline (normally light to medium green), or "tangerine" opal (orange). Opaque natural stones and beads offer even a wider range of color options, most of which are surprisingly inexpensive.

Do you have a short pearl necklace that you never wear? Here's a suggestion to perk things up— ask you jeweler about adding a strand (or more) of colored stone beads (or even colored freshwater pearls) that may be interspaced with your pearls (in a pattern of your choice), and restrung into a longer necklace. (Ornamental dividers— sometimes called "roundels"— may be used as accents.) One of the many great advantages here is that even though certain colors are most reminiscent of the current season, they may be enjoyed year-round— and they don't have to be set aside until next year with the advent of the first snowfall!

Questions or comments? Email to [email protected].

03/11/2023

In jewelry, trends can change fairly rapidly, but styles are usually not quite as fickle, and will normally take years to change, depending on where in the country you live. One thing for certain though: the combined effects of a high gold market (around $1860 an ounce at this writing) and the lingering impact of the COVID pandemic have played absolute havoc with the general use of fine jewelry. Have you noticed that not nearly as many people are wearing much jewelry besides some of the "bare essentials"? Gold chains and bracelets? Not so much. Showy diamond items such as "tennis bracelets"? Very rarely. And when was the last time you saw someone wearing pearls? In general, dress is more casual now, possibly from so many people having spent so much time indoors in their "sweats" or pajamas.

In public, much of the fine jewelry we were used to seeing has vanished, but it hasn't disappeared. Most of it is languishing in a drawer, a jewelry box, or maybe a safe deposit box, which is really a shame, because in many instances, things may be repurposed or reworked to fit a more casual style.

There's a funny thing about nice jewelry, and it's been true for literally thousands of years: fine jewelry feels good to wear, and by wearing it, YOU feel good, too. In many cases, a piece of jewelry carries sentimental value, but most jewelry (at least, the jewelry that you like to wear) is beautiful to you in one way or another. If it's not something that suits your personal style, one of the wonderful things about fine jewelry is that it can usually be altered to suit your taste. It's wearable art. Not going anywhere "important"? So what? Dig out something you haven't worn for the past two years, and give it some air! And if you have things that you really can't see yourself wearing again, you may consider a visit to your local jeweler, who will be happy to offer suggestions on how you might get better use out of something that just "doesn't do it for you" anymore. (And while you're there, routine cleaning & inspections are often offered at no charge.)

01/30/2023

Just for fun, I thought I would post one of my columns from a few years back... it's as relevant now as it was then, and important info for anyone with fine jewelry that may be passed on to the next generation at some point,

If you are aware of the history of certain items in your jewelry collection, it would be well worth the effort to document this for future generations. It’s always wonderful to know the story behind a piece of family jewelry, and the best way to be assured that the history is remembered is to write it down. There is a great difference between "an old ruby ring that’s been in the family for a long time", and knowing that your ruby ring was something that your grandfather gave to your grandmother when your mother was born, the July after he returned home from the army. (Ruby is the July birthstone.) Mini-histories like this become treasured legends in families, and the only good way to preserve them is to document them, one way or another.

Any recorded history of family jewelry should be protected, or it will eventually wind up lost. Even if you feel that certain information may not be of interest to the next generation, document it anyway. Let your heirs decide whether they want to make use of the record or not, because once the chain of information is broken, there is rarely any way to reconstruct that history.

In most families, heirloom jewelry (or jewelry with heirloom potential) already exists, and the longer that time goes by without any attempt to document the history, the more difficult it becomes to reconstruct. Even something that you consider to be common knowledge should be documented, since your grandchildren will not be privy to your memories. Don’t bet your bottom dollar that your children will remember where a certain piece came from, either.

Of course, this sort of information is invaluable to your heirs, but I should be clear that more often than not, the increase in “value” as the result of documentation is an intrinsic or sentimental one, and will never amount to an actual monetary difference, unless it can be proven that the jewelry was owned (or gifted to you or one of your family members) by someone famous.

I’m not saying that each and every detail needs to be preserved, but occasions, dates, people and places that could be of interest should all be considered. The charm that such things will carry many years from now is immeasurable, and the detailed provenance of a piece of family jewelry is something that you’ll never regret doing. There is simply no downside to maintaining a written record. If you want to be as sure as possible that the information is preserved for the future, write it down.

02/02/2022

Planning a winter vacation to get away from the cold? Please keep the issue of home security in mind. It's easy enough to have your mail & newspaper deliveries held, and light timers are always great, but if it snows, nothing says "nobody home" like a front walk with a still pristine snow cover several days (or more) after a snowfall. If at all possible, make arrangements to have your walk or driveway shoveled or plowed, but if nothing else, ask a neighbor to walk up & back to the house a few times after it snows.... and NEVER store your jewelry where a thief will look for it first: on a dresser in a jewelry box, or in your top dresser drawer. (The #1 target of almost every home burglary is JEWELRY.)

11/13/2021

With the approach of colder weather here in the Northeast, many people will "dust off" some of the jewelry that has been set aside for the Summer. Autumn signals change, and when nature shifts, everything seems to shift with it. Jewelry that has been unused during the warmer months is frequently reactivated— but what of the things that have gone unused, and are now out of favor, or out of style? Perhaps a piece isn't as bright as your memory of it was, or a ring that was a favorite last year no longer fits correctly?

It's really a shame to let fine jewelry languish in a box, unworn and unseen— but with a very small degree of effort, this situation can generally be corrected with relative ease. A good deal of the time, a simple cleaning can make jewelry sparkle again, and many jewelry stores offer cleaning and inspection as a free service. If something has become dull and worn-looking from use, most items can actually be refinished, and made to look like new for a very modest cost. Rings that no longer fit right can (almost) always be re-sized, and earring clasps or bracelet/necklace catches that no longer function correctly can usually be adjusted— but what if the problem goes beyond that?

Perhaps a piece has simply fallen out of favor, or is no longer in style? Most fine jewelry can be re-purposed in one way or another; either altered somewhat, or changed completely. Diamonds (and many colored stones, as well as pearls) can be re-used, and put into new pieces, changing a look completely, or even changing a basic use. In some cases, bracelets can become rings (or vice-versa), or single earrings can become pendants, and necklaces can become bracelets. Stones can always be re-mounted for a fresh look, and even a demure single strand of pearls (that may have worked well with more formal looks of years past) may be modernized by the addition of colored stone beads or accents.

Can't visualize anything? Your local jeweler can be a wonderful resource for ideas, but nothing will happen if you don't take the initiative. Don't allow fine jewelry to "fall by the wayside", whether it's something of yours that's now out of favor, or a family piece that has never been worn, simply because it's just "not you". There are solutions, and your jeweler has answers.

09/07/2021

Now that September is here, it's time to think about things that have been off your radar all summer. If you're like most people, your jewelry has been pushed to the back burner. Winter will be here again before you know it, and it would be a good idea if you could get to at least a few of the things on the list.

What? You don't have a list? Well, by all means allow me to provide you with one, because there are things that really should get handled before too much time elapses. (Segue!)

Talk about time, this would be a great time to be sure that you're on time, by having the battery in your watch changed before it dies, and while you're at the jeweler's, you should take advantage of the free inspection & cleaning that most jewelers offer for your jewelry— especially the things you wear frequently. This will not only keep your jewelry looking it's best, but it will help to assure that catches, clasps, and prongs holding stones are secure. (Segue!)

Routine security measures need to be reviewed once a year, and this should include in-home as well as away-from-home issues. Is your "good" jewelry stored in a safe place (and hidden from view) when you're home, or out for the day? What about when you go on vacation? If you take jewelry with you, will you have a safe place to keep it? If your vacation involves international travel, will your jewelry still be insured? (Segue!)

On the subject of insurance, the transition of seasons is also a good time to review your homeowner's insurance policy, and be sure that you understand how your policy works, and that you're up to date with having your jewelry listed— which should be at current (within the past few years) evaluations on your insurance documents. (Segue!)

Documentation of the provenance of jewelry is something that can always be put off, but I assure you that without a written record, there will eventually come a time when someone in the next generation of your family wonders about the history of the necklace or ring that Mom (or Grandma) loved so much. Sure, you know what the story is— but what happens 20, 30, or 40 years from now? If it's something that you think your heirs might like to know about, write it down while you are able to do so— there is absolutely no downside.

Of course, none of these things are especially timely— but if you were to make the effort to get even a few of them handled now, you'll be way ahead of the game, and there will be much less likelihood that you'll "fall" behind on your jewelry check-off list as the leaves begin to turn.

03/26/2021

Spring has definitely sprung, and this is the perfect time of year to be thinking about routine maintenance and spring cleaning for your fine jewelry. If you're up to it, you can clean most jewelry yourself, but many retail jewelers will be happy to do it for you, and in most cases, this is done at no cost. All jewelry (especially items that are worn regularly) should be cleaned & inspected at least twice a year, and although you can certainly do "simple" inspections yourself (earring backs that are not tight, clasps that do not close properly, etc.), it is best that you have this done by a professional, who can often spot trouble before there's a loss. (This service is generally done while you wait, and usually provided at no cost as well.) The old expression states "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Exactly so. Contact: [email protected]

11/28/2020

Looking to sell an unwanted diamond to raise extra cash for the holidays? I have a one-word piece of advice: DON'T. Right now, the market is flooded with diamonds, and the demand is way down, which makes a nasty combination (high supply, low demand) for anyone who may want to sell an unwanted engagement ring. If at all possible, my best recommendation would be to wait at least a year, because anyone in the jewelry industry buying a "previously enjoyed" diamond now (November/December, 2020) will be offering nothing above rock-bottom prices.
Contact: [email protected]

10/09/2020

At the time of this posting, the price of gold is above $1900 per ounce, which means that if you own gold jewelry that was not purchased very recently, you are now underinsured, assuming that you are insured at all! Most of the homeowners insurance policies cover a certain amount of jewelry, but if your insurance company has no record of the specific items (either a bill of sale or an insurance appraisal), in most instances, you are not covered. (Check with your insurance company or your insurance agent.) Do you have more jewelry than your policy covers? Your best bet would be to purchase extra insurance (generally called a “rider”) from your insurance company. Rates vary, but this type of insurance is usually a fraction of the cost of purchasing a separate policy. Contact: [email protected]

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